Israeli Movie Festival: A Break from Wartime Reality

I was walking from the Kotel around 9:00pm, when I noticed there were people at the entrance of the Tower of David. The tower is a medieval fortress, containing archeological findings 2,700 years old. During the day, there's a museum inside this historical site, so I was curious why people were there late at night.

I discovered that the first Lord of the Rings movie was playing at the Tower of David as part of the Israeli movie festival. I was intrigued by this instantly! One, I'm a big fan of The Lord of the Rings movies and two, how was a movie going to be played in this ancient citadel?

I walk by this tower every time I enter the Old City through Jaffa Gate and yet, I had never gone inside before that evening. I stepped inside the fort and went back in time. I am always astonished when I walk on the Jerusalem stones and touch the walls from thousands of years ago. I'm grateful to see Jerusalem's history before my eyes and I can only hope the site will stand the test of time. 

Down some steps and through the fort, lies an area of grass outdoors. I saw a group of 50 people sitting down on portable seats, watching the movie projected on the ancient stone walls. Parents, children, Israelis of all ages gathered to watch the movie. On this quiet night in the Old City, you could not hear rocket sirens; you could only hear the voices of Gandalf and Frodo.

 

What a beautiful thing it was, to see Israelis taking a break from their current reality. Taking a break from the news, the criticisms, the worry, the pain. Taking a break from war.

When I see Israelis carry on with their lives by going to work and enjoying their time out in town, I see strength. Despite the adversity Israel as a country faces, its people persevere.

These Israelis at the Tower of David face the unpredictability of running to a bomb shelter at any time of day.

These Israelis might be an IDF soldier, or a past soldier, or will mandatorily be a soldier at the age of 18.

These Israelis probably know some friends, family, or loved ones in Gaza whom are risking their lives every day to defend the country.  

And yet, these Israelis are watching The Lord of the Rings...

Going to the movie theatre or watching 'On Demand' at home is normal to me. However, I'd say Israelis treasure this normalcy. To live with a certain extent of normalcy is a fortunate thing that should be cherished, not taken for granted.

How appropriate it was to sit in the Tower of David that night. Just as this ancient citadel was used for military protection, I felt protected as well. During the movie, I felt untouched by the war, the antisemitism in the world, the political nonsense, and the daily tension. I was simply watching a movie on a cool night in beautiful Jerusalem.

 I only wish that all Israelis can return to some blissful normalcy once again.

-Camille Pilar Phillips

A Timeless Old City

I felt as if I was walking in another era as my program toured the Old City in Jerusalem. When I walk through this timeless city, it's as if I've been there before. For many Jews, there is an innate spiritual connection to Israel and I find that even more apparent in the Old City.

There's a certain way the light reflects on the ancient stone walls, and so depending on the time of day you visit, the same setting can look exceptionally unique each time. I always find a peaceful quiet in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City. I love walking through the windy alleyways as if I'm in a maze. I enjoy sitting on the benches there as I watch kids playing, mothers strolling their babies, and fathers walking to schul with one another.

 The Old City is the location where the three major religions intersect. The city is divided into three quarters: the Jewish Quarter, the Muslim Quarter, and the Christian Quarter. We first walked through the Arab shuk in the Muslim Quarter where we went down narrow streets filled with shops. Hookahs, backgammon boards, hand-made leather sandals, and other trinkets caught my eye. We then entered the Christian quarter and went to the roof of the Austrian Hospice. There, we saw a breathtaking view of prominent Jerusalem landmarks. It was a grand vantage point overlooking the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, and the Church of Mary Magdalene. Afterwards, we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is an important pilgrimage among all sects of Christians. We ended the tour at the Monument to the Defenders of the Jewish Quarter, a memorial dedicated to the defenders who fell in the Independence War. I spend a great amount of time in the Jewish Quarter so it was interesting to visit the other quarters and understand why one location is considered to be the holiest place among all three religions.

 Arab Schuk

 Church of the Holy Sepulchre

To me, the most meaningful sites in the Old City are the Western Wall and the Hurva Synagogue. These two places share a commonality of a history of destruction and thus, are sites that embody the strength of the Jewish nation. 

The Western Wall, or Kotel, is a remnant of the ancient wall that surrounded The First Temple that stood on the Temple Mount. The First Temple was constructed in 19 BCE and some 400 years later was destroyed by the Babylonians. The temple was later rebuilt in 516 BCE, but was destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD. Now, the remnants of the wall from the Second Temple is seen as the most sacred site for Jews and a place for prayer and Jewish pilgrimage. From 1948 until 1967, when the wall was under Jordanian control, Jews were not allowed at their holy site. Once Israel captured the Old City in 1967, Jews were once again able to return to the Western Wall and to this day, it remains a sacred Jewish site. I'm so grateful that I can go to the kotel whenever I please, because these events show how hard Jews had to fight for their religion and  to defend their history.

 The Western Wall

The Hurva Synagogue was first destroyed by Muslims in 1721. In 1864, the synagogue was rebuilt only to face the same fate when it was destroyed again in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. Finally in 2008, the Hurva was rebuilt and it remains a place of prayer and stands as a symbol of Israel's resilience.

 The Hurva Synagogue

  To finish this post, I'll leave you with a poem written by Yehuda Amichai about Jerusalem.

“Songs of Zion the Beautiful #21”
Jerusalem’s a place where everyone remembers he’s forgotten something
but doesn’t remember what it is.
And for the sake of remembering I wear my father’s face over mine.
This is the city where my dream-containers fill up like a diver’s oxygen tanks.
Its holiness sometimes turns into love.
And the questions that are asked in these hills
are the same as they’ve always been: “Have you
seen my sheep?” “Have you seen my shepherd?”
And the door of my house stands open
like a tomb where someone was resurrected.

Shalom for now!

-Camille Pilar Phillips

Time Traveling in Jerusalem

Last week, I went on a journey through time as I toured the City of David in Jerusalem. This site has such a rich history going back thousands of years ago. The tour enhanced my appreciation for the land I endear and the Israelis defend. 

My group first toured the City of David, an archeological wonder and the birthplace of Jerusalem. Dating from 1004 BCE, King David established his kingdom and still to this year, the remnants of the city remain. Biblical stories come to life on this tour. Our guide showed us the archeological findings of personal seals and documents with the names of men discussed in the Torah. This was a miraculous discovery and tangible proof of the foundation of Judaism meeting reality.

The next part of the tour consisted of a walk through the ancient tunnel of Shiloh. The tunnel was created in 701 BCE during the rule of King Hezekiah. It is carved out through solid rock and extends from the city to the well at Shiloh. Hezekiah created the tunnel to protect Jerusalem's water source from the invading Assyrians.

It was a 45 minute walk through darkness, in which we were enclosed by ancient rock walls. Part of the tunnel still contains water; at times the water was high enough to reach my thighs! Since the tunnel is pitch black, we were given flash lights, but chose to use them scarcely. No matter what age, there's something about the darkness that's scary fun!

Shalom for now!

-Camille Pilar Phillips

Eating Your Way Through Jerusalem

I think we can all agree that one of the greatest aspects of traveling is the food! I sure have enjoyed that aspect while I’ve been living in Israel. This blog post will include a list of restaurants that you’ll have to check out if you ever travel to Jerusalem. I hope I can make your mouth water and amplify your appetite! Enjoy this culinary journey through Jerusalem:

Burgers Bar

Whoever says a kosher burger just isn’t the same as a classic cheeseburger, needs to try Burgers Bar! It will put any other burger joint to shame. This gourmet burger restaurant serves lamb burgers, beef burgers, and a house special “spicy” burger. The unique element of Burgers Bar is the multitude of sauces you can choose from to enhance your burger, including chimichurri, pesto, and spicy mayo. Along with the burgers, this restaurant serves other entrees. A favorite of mine is the schnitzel salad and steak salad. You’ll definitely get your fix of protein with a combination of the salad and burger (pictured below).

New Deli

This sandwich place could not be more different than your average Subway. I ate at New Deli twice and both times left me with a satisfied tummy. I decorated my New Deli steak sandwich with chimichurri sauce and charif, an Israeli spicy sauce. Make sure if you ever order this sauce to say, “k’tzat, k’tzat!” In Hebrew, that means “a little.” Trust me, a little goes along way with charif! Another sandwich I ate consisted of New Deli’s double meat option, in which I chose corned beef and roast beef. Delicious!

Waffle Bar

If you’re in the mood for dessert, Waffle Bar is the place to go! This restaurant serves a slew of waffles. From Nutella to white chocolate flavor, Waffle Bar has created killer combos to satisfy anyone’s waffle desire. My bold craving urged me to choose the Oreo cookies and cream waffle. What a great decision that was! The cold cookies and cream ice cream with Oreo pieces on top of the warm waffle was a sweet sensation.

Budget Option:

Cofizz

With five shekels, you can buy any item in the café! The iced coffee they offer is a classic in Israel. It’s similar to a Starbucks frappuccino, but more slushy and with a flavor that keeps you coming back!

Shalom for now!

-Camille Pilar Phillips

A Nation of Perseverance

Loud, daunting sirens go off. The same sirens people warned us about in case of a terrorist attack. How can anyone really be prepared for that? I was hanging out with friends in my hostel when I heard the rocket warning siren. Everything from that point on went by so fast. My friends and I barely looked at each other and said nothing. We all knew. We had 90 vital seconds to get down to the bomb shelter. The run down the three flights of stairs is a blur. Trying to catch my breath was a struggle. We got down to the bomb shelter and I awaited any news that could determine my fate.  

The sad thing is, what I went through last night is a standard for some communities in Israel. It was a reminder of the threat the Israelis constantly face. According to the IDF, over 450 rockets have been fired at Israel since the beginning of the year. Yesterday, 160 rockets were fired from Gaza and

today there were another 72 rockets fired. Coming to Israel for the summer, I knew the risk, but was doubtful I'd ever face it. At the beginning of the program, our madrichim showed us the bomb shelter in the hostel and told us what to do in case of a terrorist attack. At that time, it seemed like an earthquake drill I would practice in elementary school. This was no drill; this was my life.

Fortunately, the iron dome defense system was able to shoot down the rockets yesterday. To my friends and family, it is important to know that I still feel relatively safe in Israel. As scary as last night was, I trust the army to protect us. The IDF is well trained and are taking action against the perpetrators, Hamas. 

Today, I pleasantly strolled around downtown Jerusalem and the Old City. I saw tourists shopping at the Cardo, people praying at the Kotel, and Israeli citizens going on with their lives as normal. To me, that is strength. Even with the latest events, I have had the best summer of my life living in Israel. This experience has enhanced my love for Israel and my pride as a Jew. The Israeli people have come together during these tough times as a community like none I have ever seen. I have faith in the strength of this nation.  עם ישראל חי-- the nation of Israel lives! 

"Israel was not created in order to disappear – Israel will endure and flourish. It is the child of hope and the home of the brave. It can neither be broken by adversity nor demoralized by success. It carries the shield of democracy and it honors the sword of freedom." -John F. Kennedy 

-Camille Pilar Phillips

Shabbaton in the Negev

This past weekend, participants from four different Onward Israel programs united for a Shabbaton. We stayed in a town called Yeruham, located in the Negev desert. Yeruham was Israel's first development town started by the government for new immigrants. Historically, the town was a place of poverty. However, I saw a different side of Yeruham. The Yeruham I experienced was an advancing town with a supportive community and a bright future.

On Friday morning, the early risers piled into the buses at 6 a.m. to drive to the Makhtesh Hagadol, the astounding Great Crater. We stepped out of the buses to be greeted with the dry Israeli heat and nothing but dessert surrounding us. We walked towards the end of the cliff and what bestowed us was an incredible view.  This site is a geological masterpiece! The makhtesh is a geological erosional landform with steep rock walls surrounding a deep closed valley. The crater goes on for miles and you can't help but feel small overlooking this grand abyss.

Makhtesh Hagadol

Yeruham Lake Park

 

Yeruham camels

Later on in the day, we met Yeruham citizens who offered fresh perspectives and their personal experiences of living in Yeruham. First, we went to a local home and learned about Esther, Mas'uda, Miriam, Rivka, and Shula: Yeruham's culinary queens. They are  women with no or low incomes whom open their homes to tourists and provide them with traditional Yeruham food and hospitality. These visitors supply the women with an added income and all proceeds of their cookbook go to the New Yeruham Foundation for the Promotion of Education in Yeruham.

Afterwards, we met teenagers in the Robotics Club at the local high school. These students are fulfilling their dreams by challenging themselves to invent robots and compete with schools all around Israel. They spoke to us about both the obstacles and advantages of living in Yeruham. Although they don't live in Tel Aviv, a city known for its tech startups, the high school students of Yeruham receive special attention and opportunities since they are a smaller group of kids. It was incredible to meet such motivated teenagers that are striving for a future beyond any limitations Yeruham once had. 

Playing music with a member of the Indian Jewish community in Yeruham

It was insightful to spend a weekend in a different town in Israel. It reminded me that Israel is a beautiful country with a variety of landscapes and people.

Shalom for now!

-Camille Pilar Phillips

יהי זכרם ברוך- May their memories be a blessing

To be living in Israel during the tragedy of three Israeli teenagers, kidnapped and murdered, is indescribable.  Feelings of frustration, sadness, confusion, and guilt overcome me. The three Israeli teenagers- Eyal Yifrach, 19, Gilad Sha'er,16, and Naftlai Frankel, 16-were kidnapped on June 12th while hitchhiking home and were found dead on Monday in the West Bank.

For the past few weeks in Israel, the kidnapping has been on everyone's mind and in their hearts. There has been an unwavering spirit in Israel...whether it was from the IDF's Operation Brother's Keeper, the thousands of Jews who prayed at the Western Wall for the boys return, or individual acts of awareness for the cause.

Just one night before the tragic news of the boys' death, there was an event in Tel Aviv to bring the Israeli nation together. This was a benefit concert, sponsored by OneFamily, where thousands of Jews rallied in solidarity to show their support. There was an outpouring of hope and spirit at the concert, but less than 24 hours later, the fatal news was released. I was walking on Ben Yehuda street in Jerusalem, when I first heard the news playing on a television screen outside a restaurant. People crowded around the screen to hear the news that a search team found the three teenagers dead in a ditch. What followed was a solemn atmosphere and mourning throughout all of Israel. 

That night, a group of 50 of us in my Onward Israel program came together outside of the hostel for prayers and songs. We gathered around to make a big circle and in the center of the circle we lit three candles on behalf of the three boys. By sharing our thoughts and hugs, we comforted one another and grew closer. This intimate gathering preceded a grand ceremony for the boys' joint burial service in the city of Modiin.

Hundreds of thousands of Jews all across Israel traveled hours to attend the funeral.  Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu and President Reuven Rivlin spoke at the burial service, giving their dearest condolences and powerful speeches. According to Haaretz, Netanyahu yesterday said, “[The teens] were kidnapped and murdered in cold blood by animals. In the name of the whole of Israel, I ask to tell the dear families — to the mothers, the fathers, the grandmothers and the grandfathers, the brothers and sisters — our hearts are bleeding, the whole nation is crying with them.”

Personally as an American Jew, I identify greatly with my religion and my people of Israel during this momentous time. At the funeral, I felt a fervent sense of purpose and meaning, seeing thousands of Jews united for a common cause.  I've never felt so proud to be a Jew and to be a part of a Jewish state that is strong against all odds. My prayers go out to the families of Eyal, Gilad, and Naftlali.

יהי זכרם ברוך-  May their memories be a blessing

A massive crowd marching toward the funeral to pay their respects to Eyal, Gilad, and Naftlali.

-Camille Pilar Phillips